Hi-Performance and Sailplanes RC hotliners, electric pylon racers, F5B, F5D, sailplanes and gliders

Sailplanes, EP,TD, DLG, Slope, DS, PSS, Scale

Old 06-11-2006, 11:21 PM
  #1  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default Sailplanes, EP,TD, DLG, Slope, DS, PSS, Scale

Our regular readers will notice a Forum name change; Thanks to our kind and understanding Administrators, this Forum is now for any type of Sailplanes (or Gliders) whether powered or unpowered.
Feel free to post regarding Thermal Duration, Hand Launch, Discus Launch, Slope Gliders, Dynamic Soaring, Glider Combat, Scale Gliders, F3B, F3F, F3J, and any others that may have slipped my mind at the moment!
Because this Forum has been for "Electric-Powered Sailplanes" since it's inception it may take awhile for the "Unpowered" flyers to find out about the change. You can help by mentioning it to your flying buddies. Also, if you belong to or are in contact with a Soaring club, let them know they are welcome here.
Hopefully we will become a useful resource for all types of Sailplanes!
Thermals!
Ron
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 07-29-2006, 11:32 AM
  #2  
AEAJR
Community Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 5,865
Cool

Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
Our regular readers will notice a Forum name change; Thanks to our kind and understanding Administrators, this Forum is now for any type of Sailplanes (or Gliders) whether powered or unpowered.
Ron
Thanks Sky Sharkster! I did not notice the change till I read your sticky.

I fly thermal duration sailplanes in the 2-4 meter range that are hi-start or winch launched. I fly aerotowed sailplanes, slope gliders and DLGs too.

I started my flying in parkflyers and still enjoy them a lot. But my heart has fallen in love with unpowerd planes. I probably spend 75% of my air time with sailplanes today.

If anyone needs help in this area, I will try to assist in any way I can.

I have a lot of articles written on sailplanes, slope gliders and the like. However, since this was e-gliders, and I don't have any e-gliders, I have not posted them here. Maybe I will.
AEAJR is offline  
Old 07-29-2006, 03:33 PM
  #3  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default Glide on Forever!

Hi Ed, glad you found the new format! If you have any useful soaring articles or data, please go ahead and post'em. Jason and I are starting to work on descriptions/explanations about the various classes, flying hints and launch systems, plus links to related sites. Any help will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Ron
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 10-03-2006, 10:47 PM
  #4  
AEAJR
Community Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 5,865
Default

The New Glider Pilot's Handbook
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11050
AEAJR is offline  
Old 02-09-2007, 07:03 AM
  #5  
Ed Emmons
Ed
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: East Granby, Connecticut
Posts: 338
Default

last fall I returned to RC after being away for 30 years. I purchased a 2 meter glider from Tower Hobbies. I use a high start to launch the glider. The high start consists of 100 feet of 1/4 inch surgical tubing,150 feet of 40 pound monofiliment, a parachute, and a steel key ring. The rubber tubing is attached to a steel stake and the steel ring is attached to the glider's tow hook .

To launch the glider I attach the steel ring to the tow hook. Then I start walking backwards until the tubing has been stretched to about 175 feet. At this point I give the glider a gentle toss and the tubing does it thing. A little up elevator will keep the glider nose up and the pull of the tubing makes for dramitic launches. Once the glider stops going up a little down elevator will cause the tow line to come off the tow hook. The parachute opens and the hi-start return to the ground.

I've had several flights of 20 plus minutes.

I fly at North Troy, Vermont and Simsbury, Connecticut.

Last edited by Ed Emmons; 02-09-2007 at 07:20 AM.
Ed Emmons is offline  
Old 02-09-2007, 02:11 PM
  #6  
AEAJR
Community Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 5,865
Default

Sounds like you are having a great time with your glider. What plane do you have?

Also sounds like you could be getting even higher launches. If you are interested,let me suggest the following, if you have the room.

Add 50 feet to your pull. Typical pull on a hi-start is 3X the length of the rubber, as long as you are using it above 45 degrees. At 3X you will get a stronger pull AND a longer pull. With 1/4" rubber with a Gentle Lady, Spirit or Tower Vista type plane you will not be over stressing the plane. If you are interested or concerned, You can use a fish scale to measure the pull. I launch my Spirit at 12 pounds pull on 1/2 inch rubber that I pull to 1 1/2X rubber length. But I am using VERY strong rubber. 3X the strength of yours.

If that works OK, then add another 100 feet of line to your hi-start. Typically the line length is 3X-4X times the length of the rubber. You are only at 1.5X I have a 100 foot section that I add to the 400 feet of line on mine, taking it to 500 feet, when there is more than a 5 mph breeze. I get MONSTER launches. But your rubber probably can't handle that much line. You could probably get it to 300 feet with a 5 mph breeze.

Now you have a longer pull and a stronger pull on the rubber and more line to let the plane climb.

If you do the changes above, and you like it, then you can look at the next steps.

If you feel you need up elevator on the launch, you may be a bit nose heavy, OR you may have the tow hook too far forward. Either will hurt your launch height.

Since you are getting good, long thermal flights, I suspect the tow hook could be moved back.

The tow hook should be 1/4" to 1/8" in front of the CG point. This allows the nose of the plane to rotate up on the lanch and give you a climb of 60 to 75 degrees with no elevator.

Many kits will set it further forward for safety for the new pilot. A more forward position gives a more stable launch. Moving it back gives you higher launches but you must have enough pull on the hi-start and you must give it a good push when you launch, to get it up to flying speed.

You have the potential to double your launch heights if you have the room and he desire.

Maximizing height from a hi-start launch.
http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=257

Other Soaring tips
http://forums.flyesl.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=14
AEAJR is offline  
Old 02-12-2007, 02:20 PM
  #7  
Spoonwasher
Member
 
Spoonwasher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: peterborough,ontario,canada
Posts: 179
Default

Hello Ron & all the rest......I 've been flying a Gentle Ladys for a few years on & off. My second plane was a Lady.I always took it up to our field with my other glow stuff as it was great relaxed flying. I have 2 ready to fly even now.Never used a high start, don't know what they really were as nobody else in our little club flys gliders.My Dad & I have spent many a day soaring with the Turkey Vultures. We get them up with a Power pod and a cox .049.It's a slow climb upward but usually enough to get us into some thermals before the 5cc tank tuns out of fuel.My best flight was just over 42min , ran out of battery in my reciever..LoL.We don't have any kind of spot for slope soaring so powered pods is how we got started. We even made a launch rack for a kadet senior and took them up stacked on top of the kadet, quite q biplane ..Lol . We had Air Cadets at the field one day and got 21 of them up and on the sticks for demo flights.Dad would fly the Kadet and I'd launch from there at 250ft.
We have modified our Gentle lady's with different power pods and now are converting to electrics. The best sucess has been with a brushess(400 outrunner size, 9x7 Graupner folder on 3 cells- 1250mah ,direct drive,25amp esc.This works well as I was up on New Years day , high 25km winds and the plane still penetrated under control to get a Newyears day flight in.
I gave my Dad a Bird of Time arf for Xmas and picked up one for myself as My Flying partner needed a buddy too...Lol...we are currently converting these 3 meter sailplanes to electric.We really don't have the room at our field for winching or high starts.We haven't found any threads to use as a guide for the conversion,but I think we've got a good combo to fly them with.The worst thing is you have to cut the nose off these to put a motor in, use a folding prop and add a little ballast.It took me a week to get enough nerve to cut the nose off that beautiful fiberglass fuse. Dynaflight epoxy's about 9oz of steel in the nose for balast. Now our motor came in about 4oz, 4200mah 2 cell x 2 in parallel lipo's, 35 amp brushless ESC, Graupner folder with a 10 x 6 prop for another 3 oz, added 2.5 oz to balance. We're running direct drive so we need a smaller prop to get the current draw down in the range of our chosen speed controllers.The wattmeter tells us we are pulling 220 watts of power, plenty for a good climb rate and should have lots of reserve if we need more climbs.I have read that once these birds are up that they don't want to come down so I'm doubling the capacity of my radio batteries incase I need it.( built a radio battery pack with 3300 mah nicads)We are using full size recievers as Micro's wont have the range these birds are capaable of.If it hadn't been an arf, I would have installed spoliers for sure as I forsee getting these birds back to earth when you need to as of some concern.
The first day the weather breaks here we will be sending these birds up for a test flight or two. I let you know how we make out with our setups.
Don
Spoonwasher is offline  
Old 02-12-2007, 05:25 PM
  #8  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default Powered Sailing?

Hello Don, Welcome to Sailplanes @ Wattflyer! Sounds like you have quite a bit of experience with the powered Gentle Lady, I believe Goldberg still sells the power pod.
There's been a couple of Bird of Time conversion threads here, TelsaWinger and Franny both used outrunners, and Franny is now installing spoilers in hers; http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3234 What motor did you end up with? 220 Watts should be plenty of power!
We have two BOT's flying here in the Denver area, Frannys' and a hobby shop owner named Jerry have'em, both with AXI 2800 series. They look truly beautiful in the air!
I agree about the micro servos, I use Hitec HS 81's in my 2 meter and larger.
Keep us posted on your progress, Good Luck and Thermals!
Ron
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 02-12-2007, 06:26 PM
  #9  
Spoonwasher
Member
 
Spoonwasher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: peterborough,ontario,canada
Posts: 179
Default

thanks for the warm welcome. I used an ST Models outrunner, 2908-10 (25amp) released as an E upgrade for 20 sized/weight planes. Thought this was a good benchmark to start from.My fathers choice was similar but a little more power as it can replace a 30/35 sized glow motor.more amps though at 30/35 with an 11in folder by Graupner
Thanks again for the links to the BoT threads. i'll check them out after posting.
I've got a few Gentle Lady stoties throughout my trials of workable e upgrades for the plane.
I'll get some photo's together of the BoT and post them for anyone thinking of adding an e power plan to the glider.
Spoonwasher is offline  
Old 11-10-2007, 04:51 PM
  #10  
FlyWheel
Ochroma Pyramidale Tekton
 
FlyWheel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Clover, South Carolina
Posts: 3,030
Default

All RC planes are electric, regardless of what 'type" they say they are.

Some just have more baggage than others. ;-3)>

Just my 2
FlyWheel is offline  
Old 02-25-2009, 03:49 AM
  #11  
StephenW
Member
 
StephenW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Camden NSW Australia
Posts: 491
Default

Well I'm new here thats for sure but definately not new to soaring
I wasnt going to join as it seemed all power related but thought I'd have a look anyway nice to meet you all .
SteveW
StephenW is offline  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:55 AM
  #12  
lweller
LWeller
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Holland, MI USA
Posts: 6
Default

It is good to see the modification for all types of sailplanes. I love to design, build; fly just about any and every kind of sailplane and glider. There is still plenty of room on my list for dream projects.

I have nipped the nose off seven Dynaflite’s Bird of Time in the past 3 years, 4 just this winter. Most are for other people but two of the seven are my own. Because our field is small they all have been modified with split flaps made of carbon fiber panels in the bottom section of the center wing panel. This makes it very easy to land at our feet. The BOT is one of the best values on the market today. There are many better sailplanes but for the price this is a great entry level big glider either for winch or electric. Mine is powered with Medusa and an18x10" folder. I use a 36mm wide spinner that fits the nose perfectly.

My favorite interest at the moment is my Kennedy Composite Blaster 2. I built two for friends and one for myself this fall. DLG’s are truly the essence of silent flight for me. These gliders are so graceful in flight and light to the touch it is remarkable.

We can fly slope off the Lake Michigan dunes where I live but the perfect west winds are difficult to come by. When they do it is a rush to the slopes.

This weekend I am putting the final touches on a Gentle Lady I decided I just had to build to enjoy the experience of so many pilots who posted memorable accounts with their Gentle Lady. I built from the kit everything to plan except the wing. I cut a new rib set designed for a combined carbon fiber and basswood spar system. Spoilers have been added but beyond that the airfoil wing shape along with the rest is true to the Gentle Lady. Modern radio equipment is so much smaller and lighter now days that even with two more servos and more substantial wing build the plane is only slightly more than an ounce heavier than specified on the box.

There is still plenty of work projects on my tables to keep me busy until when summer arrives in June…I hope I’m wrong about that!
lweller is offline  
Old 03-01-2009, 08:56 PM
  #13  
StephenW
Member
 
StephenW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Camden NSW Australia
Posts: 491
Default

A video of my Carbon bird at one of our big air Sites Blackheath NSW Australia.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKoSs5s-ZxU[/media]
SteveW
StephenW is offline  
Old 03-01-2009, 09:00 PM
  #14  
TDisaster
Super Contributor
 
TDisaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 1,020
Default

Awesome. I've been moving un-powered lately. It's much more relaxing, and challenging too.

I started a social group for sailplane pilots here, if anyone is interested in joining.
TDisaster is offline  
Old 03-04-2009, 05:11 PM
  #15  
lweller
LWeller
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Holland, MI USA
Posts: 6
Default

Beautiful, your Howler moves right along. For some reason it looks familiar. I'm wondering if I saw that plane recently in 'RC Soaring Digest' or another magazine. Is it made in Australia and who makes or sells it?
lweller is offline  
Old 03-09-2009, 09:17 PM
  #16  
StephenW
Member
 
StephenW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Camden NSW Australia
Posts: 491
Default its an import

Hi there the Bird is a Cech built mouldie imported by Falcon gliders in Australia
but I'm sure Soaring USA would carry them . I also have a full carbon Mini blade which is US made and one of the guys got some video on Sunday at our main coastal site . No music but you can hear the blade scream when it rolls and when I pop the spolierons toward the end of the video.
[media]http://www.vimeo.com/3537587[/media]
SteveW

Last edited by StephenW; 03-09-2009 at 10:10 PM.
StephenW is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 12:44 AM
  #17  
Thermalrunner
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 13
Default

Hi everyone,

I have a brushed 550 motor 8.4v from a Sportsman Glider, (don't know anything else about it,) a brushed Turnigy 30A ESC Eagle, and a 7.4v 1800Mah 12C lipo. Will this work together in a SIG Riser 100 glider conversion? And if so, could someone recommend a economical folding prop and spinner for this setup? (size too please)
New to the electric-sailplane setup.

thank you in advance.

Dean
Thermalrunner is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 02:12 AM
  #18  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default Riser Power?

Hello Dean, Welcome to Wattflyer!
Yes, the 550 will power the Riser 100, but it won't be overpowered. The plane's RTF weight will likely be about 4 pounds and this is pretty much the maximum weight this motor will haul. So, you'll have slow, steady climbs that may take a minute or so to reach thermal altitude.
The 550 is right between the "500" and "600" size brushed motors. Here's an example;
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed500.htm
And as you can see, they recommend an 8" x 4.5" folder. I looked in an old Hobby-Lobby catalog and found a "600" 7.2 volt motor and they recommended the same prop.
Here's a link for the correct size and type of prop;
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/8x4.5_cam...r_414_prd1.htm
The price may seem high, but bear in mind it comes with the prop adaptor and mounting screws, plus matched spinner. Note that the shaft is 3.2mm, same as the prop adaptor.
And, folding props almost (!!) never break. Under normal use, they last a long time. There's no solid blade sticking down when you land, which helps a lot.
Most "Speed " (brushed) motors are front-mounted, that is, they're inside the cowl and the screws are inserted from the front plate (essentially a firewall, but it's in front of the motor, instead of behind it) into the front of the motor. These are the screws that are provided with the motor.
Here's photos of a motor and nose, this is similar to the type mount I'm describing. The motor will be placed inside from the wing opening and slid forward. The shaft will be sticking out of the large center hole. Then the mount holes are aligned with the holes in the front of the motor and the screws are inserted. The spinner diameter is the same as the nose front diameter.
If you would like some suggestions on a more powerful power system, post here. But the 550 with this prop and the battery you have will be OK, if a bit underpowered.
Good Luck,
Ron
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2574.jpg
Views:	324
Size:	74.4 KB
ID:	128155   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2576.jpg
Views:	296
Size:	70.3 KB
ID:	128156  
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 02:46 AM
  #19  
Thermalrunner
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 13
Default

Ron,

Thank you very much, you have pointed me in the right direction. As you can probably tell, I'm on a tight budget and trying to use what I have. The link with the motors has a Speed 600. Not a bad price at all. Will this help a little more with the power? I am not worried about speed. As long as it gets up there in a respectable time, I'm happy.
Thank you so much for the pictures and the direction on the nose install as well.

Glad to be on board with WattFlyer.

thanks again,

Dean
Thermalrunner is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:16 AM
  #20  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default 550 0r 600?

Hello Dean,
The link with the motors has a Speed 600. Not a bad price at all. Will this help a little more with the power?
Not much, if any. The 550 and 600 have nearly identical specs. The first option that would increase your power is a geardrive (reduction gearing). This allow the motor to run at a much higher RPM, more efficiently. In turn, it's able to turn a larger-diameter prop, generating more thrust. For sailplanes, normally a planetary geardrive is used, so the nose diameter will remain small. This serves two purposes. One, it reduces drag. Two, it allows the prop to fold easily. Typically, gear ratios will be between 2:1 and 3.5:1
The problem is, planetary geardrives are fairly expensive. Usually more than the cost of the motor, although they do last a long time, if not forever.
The second alternative is to go brushless. With the prices for motors coming down all the time, you may find a good replacement for $30.00 to $50.00. Of course, you'll need a brushless ESC, this will cost about the same (or a little more) than the motor.
For this model, you'll need a motor which provides about 300 watts of power (roughly 75 watts per pound for sailplanes), a low Kv of 800 to 1200 so it will swing a large-diameter prop of 10" to 12" diameter, amp draw around 25-35 amps at full throttle and motor weight between 4 and 5.5 ounces. Here's an inexpensive outrunner that fits the bill;
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...r_Eq:_AXi_2826
This should give you some idea of the power range to look for.
Here's a free online motor calc, you can try different motor, battery and prop combinations (including the brushed motors, with and without gearing) to see the results;
http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp
There are literally dozens of motors that will work with this airplane, the one I linked is about the lowest cost. "Name" brand motors will of course cost more but generally be more efficient, run smoother and last longer.
Good Luck!
Ron
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 04:32 PM
  #21  
Thermalrunner
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 13
Default

Ron,

This information is great, cleared up some of the fog. Thank you for giving so much time to helping me out, and whoever else may read this thread. I will have her up soon thanks to you!

Best,

Dean
Thermalrunner is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 05:11 PM
  #22  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default Get Her Flying!

Hi Dean,
glad to help if I can. One other upgrade I forgot to mention would be a simple one: Going to a 3 cell (3S) LiPo of about the same, or slightly higher, capacity.
What this does is increase the input voltage from 7.4V to 11.1V. LiPos have a nominal voltage per cell of 3.7V.
If you run this change through the calc you'll see a major increase in RPM, thrust and watts. With (nothing's free!) a substantially higher amp draw.
Normally, when going to a higher voltage battery, we lower the prop size (usually diameter, but sometimes diameter and pitch) to compensate. But in this case, I believe an 8" diameter prop is about as small as you can use to pull the model.
Bear in mind, brushed motors have a finite (and short) lifespan to begin with. The brushes wear out. Running it with higher voltage simply shortens the motor life even more/faster. There's no way to say exactly how long it will last, it depends upon the motor's rated voltage, the load placed on it (generally, prop size), RPM, throttle setting (full throttle being the "worst") and motor run duration. Higher input voltage increases all these factors, all at the same time.
That's one of the main reasons brushed motors are fairly cheap. But after you've purchased a few $20.00 brushed motors, the total cost is higher than one brushless and new ESC.
Good Luck and catch some thermals!
Ron
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 06:10 PM
  #23  
Thermalrunner
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 13
Default

Ron,

I have a 11.1v 2200Mah Lipo, but I didn't think I could match it up with the brushed 550. Will this work with my brushed 30a ESC? Or you're saying going brushless.

Thanks,

Dean
P.S. Going to try to catch some Thermals today.
Thermalrunner is offline  
Old 05-21-2010, 06:58 PM
  #24  
Sky Sharkster
Super Contributor
Thread Starter
 
Sky Sharkster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 5,455
Default Different 550's?

Hi Dean,
The LiPo cell count depends on the rated voltage of the motor you have. Guess I should have explained this earlier, but my posts tend to get pretty long anyway!
The free calc doesn't have a Speed "550" Graupner motor, but it has several 500's and 600's.
Using the 500 as an example, the 7.2v 500 (the rating is usually stamped on the side or end of the motor) which has a Kv rating of 2000, set up with an 8" x 4.5" prop and 2s LiPO pulls about 22-23 amps at full throttle.
If you leave everything the same but change to 3s LiPO, the amp draw goes up to a whopping 37 amps, well over the rating for your ESC. Meltdown.
But with a 500 8.4v motor, doing the same thing (2S LiPo vs 3s LiPo), the amp draw goes from 19 amps with 2s to 26 amps with 3s. Simply put, a motor made for higher voltage (with a higher Kv) can take more volts without overloading.
Problem is, the higher Kv motor (the 8.4v version) wasn't too happy with the 8" diameter prop, efficiency was around 50%. Changing it to a 7" x 4" prop brought the efficiency up to 60% + and thrust/amp draw were still good. Propspeed (airspeed, in a perfect world) was too high for a glider, however.
That's where the calcs are so useful, but a Wattmeter is even better. The calcs are theoretical, the Wattmeter is real-life numbers.
So, I'll have to hold off on recommending the 3s conversion until we know which voltage 550 you have.
I'm not really trying to talk you into going brushless right away. I'd suggest trying the motor and 2s LiPo you have now. See if it works for you. If you want more power, there's several ways to go, Brushless would be the most expensive initially (new motor, ESC, bigger prop), but ultimately the best.
Ron
Sky Sharkster is offline  
Old 06-05-2010, 04:48 AM
  #25  
Thermalrunner
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 13
Default

I guys - I now have a Discus CS 2.6M sailplane and have metal gear servos for the Ailerons, and a Mini Hitec high torque for the rudder. Any suggestions for the elevator servo? I have a micro e-flite with good torque off a Heli a friend had, is it too light? It fits just right. The elevator hatch is pretty small.
Thanks in advance,
Dean
Thermalrunner is offline  

Quick Reply: Sailplanes, EP,TD, DLG, Slope, DS, PSS, Scale


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.12181 seconds with 15 queries