Delta & Flying Wings Discuss electric powered delta (flying wing) style aircraft here.

Steps to building delta S.P.A.D.

Old 04-25-2011, 01:50 AM
  #26  
babylon5
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Originally Posted by Enkay View Post
Hi,
I have just finished building my Depron Delta. It is a good stable 4 channel elevon trainer.



Also I made a video of it to show the constuction and test flight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_KKH1X4WJg
Very nice. Unfortunately i could not open your video. It got block due to copy right issues. Try loading the video without music or use music from your own or from the PC only.
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:53 AM
  #27  
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OK but it will be later for i have to go out soon,
Cheers
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:44 AM
  #28  
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Hi, It started pouring with rain as our Autumn sets in so I came inside and disabled the sound. Let me know if you can see this soundless video now. Cheers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxJR_3es0CY
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:28 AM
  #29  
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Looks like a real winner. Flies just great. I like your vedio of the build. Will help aanyone to built one
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:11 AM
  #30  
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Hi Enkay, nice video. I like the take off. Well done.
My first DIY electric scratch built was built out of depron foam.

The plus side of depron are :-
1)Cheap and lighter than compare to balsa
2) Easy to cut and glue. By the way water base silicon glue works better than epoxy on depron.Makes light and for fast building project.

The downside of depron are :-

1.) they lack strength and durabilty. After a couple of hard knock or landing, the depron would either crack of warp badly.
2.) Difficult to shape to a good airfoil except KF airfoil
3.) Not suitable for high speed and high stress application

Later I discover Mugi which is made out of coroplastic material are more durable and they can fly at high speed.

Although heavy, but with a good folding to get a better airfoil the result is a high lift , low drag airframe. If you check my coroplastic built , most of my aircraft is capable of over 100MPH. The advantage of low drag high speed design for electric setup is it will consume a lot less power. At speed (I had mentioned before), the propeller will unload and consumed less power in flight.

Anyway thank you for your contribution . You should try coroplast/coroflute built. Once you are into it you won't want to go back to depron.Just my personal opinion.



Cheers
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:11 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by babylon5 View Post
This delta mugi is similar to the original except with lots of differences.
The spine and the doubler are removed in favor of a proper lifting fuselage.
A spacer added about slightly less than 1/2 from the vertex so that when the coroplast in folded, it will always give symetrical airfoil(last picture on the right.

Another departure from the original mugi is the servo are not installed prior to folding with good reason. The servo will be installed last. I will come to it later.

The picture tells all.
Cont with the fuselage.
Next is to built a coroplastic box type fuselage that is strong and yet shape to provide some lift and low drag. this means the fuselage has got to be shape like a cigar when view from the side yet slim like a fish to penetrate the air.

1) Marked the area where the fuselage will pass over the top and bottom wing

2) Trace the outline of the top and bottom curve. It take time and patient.(use scrap plastic sheet)

3) Transferred the curvature trace to the inner fuselage doubler and note the direction of the flute. The flute must be align perpendicular to the lenghtwise of the fuselage.

4) place fuselage double and trace out on the main fuselage. Cut the outline of the main fuselage to shape like a cigar shape and include the keel. The shape and size of the keel depend on the propeller size. Therefore plan before hand and allow the keel at least 1/2 inches longer than the propeller.

5) Cut out a suitable vertical fin. The area of the vertical fin and the area of the lower keel is approximately 20-30 percent area of a half wing area. The the vertical fin and keel is located a few inches behind the trailing edge of the wing to generate sufficient tail moment for stability.

6) Cut out a suitable former . Two sets of former is sufficient. Join the former using 2.5mm dia. bamboo stake

7) cut a wood spar for the motor mount and place it . This will strengthened the tail

8) Glue the two fuselage together starting from the tail side

9) cut two set of nose doubler(blue colored c.p.). The flute again must run perpendicular to the lengthwise of the fuselage.

10) Glue the two fuselage together . Use peg or tape to bring the fuselage together.

11.) Cut the lower bottom sheet and let it run from the bottom fuselage and extend a little bit to the top(about a few inches from the nose ends.)

12) Cut and shape the top fuselage cover (this will become a hatch.) use bamboo stake to hold the hatch cover

13) When completed the fuselage will be have a tapered slender boxy shape


14. Slide the fuselage to the wing and use bamboo skewer to hold the wing and the fuselage.

15. cut a 30mm width full strip aileron and tape down 9tape down hinges)

16. After installing the Strip aileron then proceed to installed the servo. The servo mount is a traditional cut out plywood strip and extra strong double sided tape.

Install the airborned equipment and check the cg balance (refer to original mugi plan).

More next time. Got to sleep zzzzzz

Cheers
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by babylon5 View Post
Cont with the fuselage.
Next is to built a coroplastic box type fuselage that is strong and yet shape to provide some lift and low drag. this means the fuselage has got to be shape like a cigar when view from the side yet slim like a fish to penetrate the air.

1) Marked the area where the fuselage will pass over the top and bottom wing

2) Trace the outline of the top and bottom curve. It take time and patient.(use scrap plastic sheet)

3) Transferred the curvature trace to the inner fuselage doubler and note the direction of the flute. The flute must be align perpendicular to the lenghtwise of the fuselage.

4) place fuselage double and trace out on the main fuselage. Cut the outline of the main fuselage to shape like a cigar shape and include the keel. The shape and size of the keel depend on the propeller size. Therefore plan before hand and allow the keel at least 1/2 inches longer than the propeller.

5) Cut out a suitable vertical fin. The area of the vertical fin and the area of the lower keel is approximately 20-30 percent area of a half wing area. The the vertical fin and keel is located a few inches behind the trailing edge of the wing to generate sufficient tail moment for stability.

6) Cut out a suitable former . Two sets of former is sufficient. Join the former using 2.5mm dia. bamboo stake

7) cut a wood spar for the motor mount and place it . This will strengthened the tail

8) Glue the two fuselage together starting from the tail side

9) cut two set of nose doubler(blue colored c.p.). The flute again must run perpendicular to the lengthwise of the fuselage.

10) Glue the two fuselage together . Use peg or tape to bring the fuselage together.

11.) Cut the lower bottom sheet and let it run from the bottom fuselage and extend a little bit to the top(about a few inches from the nose ends.)

12) Cut and shape the top fuselage cover (this will become a hatch.) use bamboo stake to hold the hatch cover

13) When completed the fuselage will be have a tapered slender boxy shape


14. Slide the fuselage to the wing and use bamboo skewer to hold the wing and the fuselage.

15. cut a 30mm width full strip aileron and tape down 9tape down hinges)

16. After installing the Strip aileron then proceed to installed the servo. The servo mount is a traditional cut out plywood strip and extra strong double sided tape.

Install the airborned equipment and check the cg balance (refer to original mugi plan).

More next time. Got to sleep zzzzzz

Cheers
Sorry some more construction pictures to be added.
Good night zzzzzzzzzzz
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:32 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by babylon5 View Post
Sorry some more construction pictures to be added.
Good night zzzzzzzzzzz
cont. here is the final construction of this unique Mugi.

After the strip aileron is installed, the servo is installed in a traditional manner a departure from the original mugi servo installation which is hidden.
The reason is if the servo is install within the wing, the wing airfoil will be very thick to clear the servo horn. A thick and bulkier airfoil is not good for speed.
Since the servo can be installed on top of the wing, the wing can be folded rather thinner with the thickness at 26mm maximum.

1) The Mugi is flip over so that the bottom is facing upward. Apply cello tape and cloth tape to make the bottom side fuselage water proof and to increased its strength.

2) The RC equipment is installed with the receiver located at the tail end .

3) The battery and ESC are located so that the c.g is right on the spot.

4) A simple hatch is cut as shown with the bamboo stake shown with holes to exit the batteries cable. Breathing holes are cut at the two side of the fuselage to allow the battery to be cooled off in flight.

5) Place the battery into the fuselage and you are good to go.

The Mugi was successfully maiden and here is the link.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lVxS5egRFM[/media]

Tips set your PC full screen when watching this video.

Its fast. It glides very fast .... like a speed glider.



Cheers s
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:04 PM
  #34  
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Default New Coroplast Mugi with many differences test flight

Here are some more test flight using the improve nano technology lithium polymers batteries ,2200mah 4s 35C discharge

Part 2 speed test, part3 aerobatic and general flying.
This delta is a joy to fly. At over 700grams flying weight and only 26mm thickest chord, this plane is a floater.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmP9H402yEs[/media]

enjoy the video
Cheers
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:16 AM
  #35  
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That is a very fast machine. Excellent!
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:19 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Enkay View Post
That is a very fast machine. Excellent!
Hi Enkay I stumble on this video footage.
I thought this video was spoilt. There were just two high speed pass before the test was aborted by a faulty servo.

Single fin speed maiden and speed test.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o1Ad8_Y3sw[/media]


Cheers and take care
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:12 AM
  #37  
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Hi,
Did it crash? How long will the motor last at these speeds?
I am just starting to design another Depron. Calling it the Ezy Arrow. Will work on it over the next two weeks.
Cheers
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:55 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Enkay View Post
Hi,
Did it crash? How long will the motor last at these speeds?
I am just starting to design another Depron. Calling it the Ezy Arrow. Will work on it over the next two weeks.
Cheers
It did crash during the subsequent flight but the plane suffered a few broken bamboo stake . Otherwise it's in perfect condition.
At rest the current peaks around 27amps . At this speed, the propeller will unload and drops to around(estimate base of flying time at WOT) 22-24amps allowing slightly over 4minutes of flight with a 1750mah 3S 25C cells with some spare left for landing.

Hope you can pose us some video of your new EZY Arrow.

Cheers
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:52 AM
  #39  
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Yes I will, Design stage in my head and starting a few sketches
Cheers
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:29 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by babylon5 View Post
It did crash during the subsequent flight but the plane suffered a few broken bamboo stake . Otherwise it's in perfect condition.
At rest the current peaks around 27amps . At this speed, the propeller will unload and drops to around(estimate base of flying time at WOT) 22-24amps allowing slightly over 4minutes of flight with a 1750mah 3S 25C cells with some spare left for landing.

Hope you can pose us some video of your new EZY Arrow.

Cheers
I managed to replace the faulty servo and made a couple of flights before it eventually crashed again.
This Delta form aircraft is fast.Here is the video and the crash.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lCz5kBuu74[/media]
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:23 PM
  #41  
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Default EZY Arrow

Hi Babylon 5,
I have sketched out my new Depron Plane and have cut it out ready to put together. Will keep you informed. Have seen some of your videos on you tube. I have a Funjet too but I don't go in for too much speed.
Cheers
Enkay



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Old 05-15-2011, 01:20 AM
  #42  
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Default Arrow

Building Started

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Old 05-15-2011, 04:20 PM
  #43  
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Hi Enkay, your built looking good.
Hope to see the finished work soon.
Meanwhile i am starting another corrugated delta aircraft build. it will use the same power plant except its going to be faster and uses less power.

Cheers
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:20 PM
  #44  
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Hi,
Progressing with plane but I have to organise and speak at some large meetings and my computer group this week so will have to slow up.


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Old 07-06-2011, 03:50 PM
  #45  
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Default My micro delta pusher corrugated plastic jet

Here is my latest micro delta jet.
Modified with some design changes to it.

I also choose luminous colored camo red orange & yellow on each side of the wing to improve visibility. Only 24 inches it gets really very small very quickly at thus speed.

The video .Use full screen to watched.

http://www.youtube.com/user/starscreamer47

Thank you for viewing
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:19 AM
  #46  
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[QUOTE=babylon5;803696]Hi Enkay, nice video. I like the take off. Well done.
My first DIY electric scratch built was built out of depron foam.

The plus side of depron are :-
1)Cheap and lighter than compare to balsa
2) Easy to cut and glue. By the way water base silicon glue works better than epoxy on depron.Makes light and for fast building project.

The downside of depron are :-

1.) they lack strength and durabilty. After a couple of hard knock or landing, the depron would either crack of warp badly.
2.) Difficult to shape to a good airfoil except KF airfoil
3.) Not suitable for high speed and high stress application

Later I discover Mugi which is made out of coroplastic material are more durable and they can fly at high speed.

Although heavy, but with a good folding to get a better airfoil the result is a high lift , low drag airframe. If you check my coroplastic built , most of my aircraft is capable of over 100MPH. The advantage of low drag high speed design for electric setup is it will consume a lot less power. At speed (I had mentioned before), the propeller will unload and consumed less power in flight.

Anyway thank you for your contribution . You should try coroplast/coroflute built. Once you are into it you won't want to go back to depron.Just my personal opinion.



Cheers[/QUOTE

Hello there,
You mention water based silicone glue, what is it called in the shop?
Thanks,
Peter
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:42 AM
  #47  
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Hi,
I have not used water based silicone glue. Does it have a trade name?
Cheers
Enkay
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:49 AM
  #48  
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Default Depron Arrow

Did I ever post this?





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coH6x8aeyrs
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:57 AM
  #49  
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Sorry , question was meant for Bablyon5 who referred to it in his post.
Peter
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Old 08-15-2011, 05:54 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by phum View Post
Sorry , question was meant for Bablyon5 who referred to it in his post.
Peter
Sorry for the late response because I could not get into wattflyer forum for a few weeks.
The Water base silicon glue is call Art Select.
You need to ensure the foam material is clean and dry , then apply a thin layer of glue to both side of the foam material, then wait about 30 to 50seconds tfor the glue to be semi dry before applying pressure or stick pins to join the foam material together.


Related to foam safe glue go to this link especially at thread#4


http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36904

I hope this will help.

Cheers
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