CHELLIE

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLYildJ1X84[/media]

CHELLIE

putting the motor behind the firewall/motor mount should be better, because it should be stronger and IMHO will look better with a nice clean tight nosecone fit to the fuselage.

Also Welcome to Wattflyers DL8698
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DL8698

Hi, Chellie

Yes, I have considered the power pod method

The retractable pod looks a bit complicated to build. And a non retractable pod will probably not be good for thermalling with power off. That is why I chose the folding prop nose mounted method.

Not sure how well the DG1000 model thermals although it is based on a full sized glider which I'm sure thermals well, with its high aspect ratio wings.

CHELLIE

Hi I found this thread on converting a large glider to E Power, hope it helps, Take care and have fun, Chellie

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_82...tm.htm#8237737

CHELLIE

I had a 2 meter glider that i used a power pod with, it worked great, I used a nitro engine, gee that was about 25 years ago hope you are able to find the info you need, there is not a lot of info on converting larger 3 meter gliders to E Power for some reason, Take care, Chellie

CHELLIE

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=694339&page=8






http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=694339&page=9

DL8698

Thanks for the links. This is more or less what I'm thinking of doing. Now I know it can be done this way.

And Happy New Year to All on Wattflyer... will be 2011 in about 45 min here in Singapore.

FlyWheel

What a Great thread, and just what I'm looking for too! I have already searched it, and this question has not come up yet, so here goes...

I am building an AeroCraft Miss Stik (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59723) And I have decided to use the recommended AXI 2212/26 brushless out-runner to power it. From the specs it looks like a good motor for this bird, however what I don't like is the recommended mounting location, which is on the cowling. This wouldn't be a problem except the cowling is only taped onto the front of the fuselage. To me this is no better that just taping the motor onto the plane and I see all sorts of problems arising from it*. So what I would like to know is (are?):

1. Can this motor be mounted onto the firewall instead? if so:
2. How is this done?
3. May I assume an adapter of some sort must be bought?
4. How long will the combination motor/adapter be (I have 1.25 inches to work with)?

Thanks in advance

*The problems I see with using only tape to hold the motor on are:

• That setting up the proper thrust angles will be much harder,
• That they will be harder to keep correct and
• That every insignifigant little bump on the nose will throw them off.

I don't want to have to deal with all this , I would much rather have a solid mount against the firewall that will stay where I put it. Let the cowling be what it is meant to be; a covering for the motor.

CHELLIE

It looks to be a simple motor mount bolted to the firewall from the pic. measure your motor with the cowl, so it fits right, if not you will need to find a motor thats not to long, better a fat motor than a long motor

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=601101&page=4

CHELLIE

here is another idea if you want to use a stick motor mount, use a 3/8" x 3/8" bass wood, if the mount is a little loose, wrap masking tape on the wood, with a little ca, that will make for a tight fit.

FlyWheel

I've read that thread, in fact I have a printed copy with me on my building board. The motor pictured in that pic is not an AXI, it's a Frio 10 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=601101&page=4 (post #50).

However, I found the Axi home page, and yes, with an adapter plate/spindle it can be rear mounted, and it will just barely fit. Backwards!

http://www.modelmotors.cz/index.php?...e=26&line=GOLD

Turner

Here is a store bought option that lets you customize your mount from many different parts.

http://www.espritmodel.com/search.aspx?find=motor+mount

Gumby77

What would you all do in this situation? The mounting bracket spread is too big for the firewall. I could get longer screws, put the bracket on the back side of the firewall and use the holes for mounting the bracket to the motor... Anyone have any other ideas?

hayofstacks

Drill the inner bolt pattern into the firewall, throw the "x-mount" aside, and make sure your screws are long enough, but not too long to hit windings in the motor. Put a washer or two on the firewall side to keep the screws from pulling though, hit them with ca if you would like.

Or cut the ears off the xmount and put it in there instead of the washers. Most parkflyer sized motors have 3mm motor screws.

CHELLIE

+1 Great Advice, Also you can cut off the holes on the X mount and drill some new holes closer in, it looks like the motor body tappers towards the rear, so it should not be a problem with getting the screws into the fire wall. Hope that helps, Chellie

Gumby77

That is what I was originally thinking so it's great to hear. I'll post pictures of the workaround.


Thanks

pilot101

Chellie Will this work on foam board pushers? I need to strengthen my motor mount on my pusher .. Paul

CHELLIE

Hi Paul On Foam Board, I normally use a square stick at least 4 inches long and epoxy it to the foam board, poke holes in the paper so the epoxy will get down to the foam, also you can epoxy some plywood to the foam board, also poke some small holes in the paper so the epoxy gets to the foam as well, hope that helps, Chellie

AEAJR

CHELLIE

You started this thread. And it is still loaded with good information. But some of the motors have changed and some of the mounts have changed. Certainly the GWS stick mounted brushed motors are not seen as often as they used to be.

Out runners are more powerful, smaller and now we have outrunners in a can.

Any new tips for people?

Anyone else have any tips to offer? Let's update this discussion.