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Painting Elapor foam

Old 11-10-2008, 01:59 AM
  #26  
Pig
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Thunder, here's some of the planes I've painted. I have to dig around for some of the other stuff I've done.
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:35 AM
  #27  
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Default Gold Star for creative "colorfulness"

Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
The hobby store paints cost 3 times the same paint at the hardware store.
I use Krylon and Rustoleum on my Easy Stars and Easy Glider.

Are you sure that isn't Crayons on your planes instead of Krylon? Looks a lot like the "art" on the hallway wall my 4 year old daughter did last month. 8^) I gave her a "Gold Star" after yelling at her. I'll just give you a Gold Star for creative "colorfulness"

But I'll bet two things - 1) you can see those a mile away, and 2) no chance of mixing up your planes with someone else's.
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:42 AM
  #28  
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Default Awesome Eagle FJ

Originally Posted by Pig View Post
Thunder, here's some of the planes I've painted. I have to dig around for some of the other stuff I've done.
Love the Eagle painted FJ, awesome job and creative art. Assume you're using an airbrush; what's your hardware setup? Which paint did you use on the "eagle" FJ?
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Old 12-19-2008, 08:35 PM
  #29  
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Webster, thanks for the kind words. The eagle is done on a Stryker with Faskolor paints. I've found Faskolor has a pretty decent adhesion quality with elapor. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good.

The best I've found so far for foam is to cover it with gorilla glue, sand to a nice finish and paint with lacquer based paints designed for RC car bodies. That type of paint has great adhesion qualities, dries flexible, excellent color choices, and rarely peels up. If someone decides to go this route, try laying down a silver first, then hit it with a transparent paint for a really nice metallic effect.

For hardware, I use a 2.5 gallon compressor, Campbell-Hausfeld type, and Iwata brushes. For detail, I use my HP-C. For most water based paints, I use the Eclipse HP-CS for semi-detail work and the Eclipse HP-BCS for area coverage.
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:55 PM
  #30  
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i always wondered if painting the plane makes a diffrence in flight
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Old 01-07-2009, 02:14 AM
  #31  
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From what I can tell, it makes a big difference. It always seems to fly slower when it's near you.

All in all, it really depends on the plane and how much paint you put on. If you use light coats, you're only adding a relatively negligible amount of weight. If you're doing full custom painting with clear coating, you can be adding a significant amount of weight. Otherwise, it doesn't do much.
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Old 01-07-2009, 03:37 AM
  #32  
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From what I've read, the problem with Elapor and paint (assuming it dosent disolve the foam) is flexibility; foam bends, enamel doesn't. And since laquer thinner pits the Elapor, laquer paints are out too. How does Urethane stand up to the foam deforming?
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:08 AM
  #33  
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Urethanes also dry rather hard and are foam unfriendly. Like enamels, if you go with a light enough coat, you'll get some flexibility in the paint. Many lacquers also dry hard. You have to pick a paint that'll work with the material it's sprayed upon. For bare foam, go with a paint that will flex. Faskolor and Createx are designed to flex a bit and are water based, which makes them ideal for many RC car bodies.

The absolute best test is to find some scrap foam of your plane and perform a few tests. See for yourself how things will work out. Just be sure to prep the scrap/test piece of foam the same exact way you prep your plane for paint. Ultimately, you really want to use multiple pieces of scrap foam just to be absolutely sure.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:16 AM
  #34  
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Default Not too happy for Krylon H20 brand

Hey Pig ... no offense, just sounds that way.

Finally found a partial assortment of Krylon H20 rattle can paint at India-Mart, err Wal-Mart of all places. Forget finding it at Sherman Williams (even though I've heard they own Krylon), called three local stores and the dopes either didn't know about it or acted like they didn't want to be bothered unless you were looking for gallon can paints. Jerks

Anyway, the colors are OK, but the rattle cans do more splattering than spraying and the paint goes on too lumpy. The only can that sprayed decently was the white primer.

Just an "advisory" for everyone. Be careful with Krylon H20 paints.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:28 PM
  #35  
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Webster, the cans are sometimes finicky. It's best to spray them at room temperature. When I use them, I'll put them in a small bowl of tap water that's just a hair warmer than room temperature. The key is the water is just above room temperature, putting the can in hot water can be very dangerous. This increases the pressure in the can and often leads to a more consistent paint flow. Next, be sure what you're painting is also at or above room temperature.

No worries being called pig, it happens all the time.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:36 PM
  #36  
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Wink just might be over the top.

Originally Posted by Pig View Post
Webster, the cans are sometimes finicky. It's best to spray them at room temperature. When I use them, I'll put them in a small bowl of tap water that's just a hair warmer than room temperature. The key is the water is just above room temperature, putting the can in hot water can be very dangerous. This increases the pressure in the can and often leads to a more consistent paint flow. Next, be sure what you're painting is also at or above room temperature.

No worries being called pig, it happens all the time.
Some excellent user tips! Will definetly try the warmer than room temp water trick!

What type paint do you think I can paint over the water base Krylon H20 primer, or other water base acrylic paints like Tamiya's XF series?

Ok "Pig", know what you mean. When I was thinking of a name to use here, the name my wife always calls me when I bring home another new plane struck me ..... but somehow, "Bast@rd" just might be over the top.

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Old 01-08-2009, 05:00 AM
  #37  
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For water based paints, it's usually best to stick with other water based paints over them. Sometimes you can get away with some lacquer based paints, but you have to be super careful and even then there's no guarantee. For a good color choice (if you're airbrushing), take a trip down to Michael's and pick up some Createx paints. They're fairly affordable with a good selection of colors. AutoAir is another brand of water based paints that might work (for airbrushing). If you're sticking with spray cans, then stick with the Krylon.

For ideas on what you can do with spray cans, do a search on youtube for the spray can painters you find at fairs. Those are some seriously talented folks. Like this guy (no idea who he is):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEJtF...eature=related

(some day I'll figure out how to embed a youtube video)
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:31 AM
  #38  
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I think I saw that guy painting something on the freeway wall near my house in LA. Hmmmm

Thanks again for info, will check out the Createx paints at the local Michaels.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:29 AM
  #39  
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Hey guys, I just bought an Easy Star 2 and I decided to paint it, I was researching for days now how to paint elapor, I read a lot of articles and finally I decided to go with the gorilla glue technique, I got an airbrush and 60 ml of it, but I didn't figured it out how to apply it to the surface to keep the model light as possible also. I did the preparation as "Pig" said, washed the entire airframe 5 times with a wet sanding in between. Should I airbrush it? How is that possible?
I would appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Robert.

Last edited by robert_btr; 05-08-2012 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:59 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Pig View Post
I then discovered Gorilla Glue, a polyurethane glue. Coating the foam with Gorilla Glue works great and provides a nice durable surface, not to mention adding great strength to the plane. But, it too has it's many problems...such as foaming unexpectedly. When coated in the glue, you can sand rather aggressively with little fear of damaging the foam. I've even pulled out my palm sander and 120 grit. Worked quite well. But, (there's always a but) the foamed up bits were a royal pain to smooth out. A trip to Michael's Arts and Craft store brought much needed relief to me. I found a non-foaming polyurethane glue that works wonders. It has the same protective properties as Gorilla Glue, but doesn't foam. This means everything stays smoother with good durability.
We would appreciate if you could tell us which one is that non foaming polyurethane glue?
Thank you very much!
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