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Honey Bee CP2 LED won't go Green

Old 03-16-2006, 09:47 AM
  #51  
no8080
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Hi guys,

I finally got my battery problems sorted. I purchased two new 11.1V 1800mah batteries. They are 6 cell jobbies, 3s2p, so they increase the weight of the heli a bit. I found this helped to stablise the heli out a lot, as the CG of the heli is lowered.

Managed to hover the heli a few inches off the ground, after tweaking the gain alot I managed to get the tail stablised. Finally!!!!

Felt great, but I was sweating and on an adreneline high!!!

On a side note, Nick, I found a good UK site for li-po's, eurobatteries.co.uk is very good. Although the batteries do not have balanced charger leads on them.

Neil
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Old 03-17-2006, 12:39 AM
  #52  
gd12
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Neil,

Good work! Keep at it.


Nick,

This afternoon I removed the rotor head, lubed the main shaft, fine tweaked the swashplate level, balanced the blades, and reassembled the blade grips with the washers properly positioned. Now I have more lift at less throttle and no scary leaping into the air with no input from me. The effort was well worth it. Now I am plan to stay in the battery 8&9 mode until I can keep it just off of the skids and within a two foot radius. Now if I were to offer it for sale, I could truthfully say, "Ready to fly" unlike the liars at Esky.

Happy Hovering, Gary
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:54 AM
  #53  
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Default First heli, honey bee cp2

Just bought my first heli. Honey Bee CP2 with extra 1200 mah li-po battery. Almost canceled my order after reading several HB cp2 and Blade CP forums. I don't like the thought of worrying about things breaking. Don't want to be the mailman's best friend.

Well, after I placed my order it was too late to cancel from www.hobbyjapan2000.com. Got it within 4 days. I am glad i did not cancel. This thing is sweet. Both batteries were freshly charged. I threw some batteries into the transmitter and I was ready to go.

Followed Radds flight school. Got to the point where I put on the training gear and scoot forward. Well, that was a lot harder then it sounded. When the heli starts to get off the skids, it slides around to the point where I would have to throttle back down. I was practicing on a twenty to 30 square feet area indoors with smooth floor. I need more practice with the aileron fore and aft. Even with that much room I have gotten close to the wall very quickly. This was during my lunch break. Ate during work so I can fly on my break in a nice open area at work.

There has got to be a better solution for not having to worry about crashing or replacing blades.

I had a piece of carbon fiber rod laying around and came up with an idea for a modified training gear. My idea is to prevent the blades from being the first thing to hit the wall. It is a pretty simple solution and there is a lot wider landing surface to keep me from tipping the heli over.

I went over to the local hobby shop and bought several carbon fiber rods at 3.99 a piece. Bought several .40 mm carbon fiber rods and three .70 rods. Well, realized that the .40 mm rods were too thin and not strong enough. There was too much flex. The .70 rods were just right. It fits the training gears center plastic connector and stays in place without any CA or tape. With one CF rod, I connect each end to one of the four holes on the center plastic connector for the training gear. That creates a loop pertruding further than the heli blades on one side of the heli. The training gear connector only allows me to connect two rods. One on the front of the heli and one on the back.

I only have one .70 cf rod left and the left and right side of the heli is still not protected yet. So i moved the front and back loops to the left and right and used the third Carbon fiber rod for the front of the heli. There were no more places to connect the third rod. I used the extra holes from the piece of plastic that connects to the skids for the training gear to connect the third carbon fiber rod. I weaved it from the front right hole and back to the left back hole of piece of plastic on the skid. Did the same for the opposite end of the cf rod. Stuck it in the left front hole to the right skids back hole. The attached picture will make this more clear, hopefully.

I need to go back to the local hobby shop to get another cf rod and to return the several pieces of .40 mm cf rods. These little babys are expensive at 3.99 a pop.

So far i think this will work. The rods are really really lightweight and if the heli can handle a 1800 mah lip battery, then his would be a piece of cake to fly. Crossing my fingers.
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:03 AM
  #54  
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Default traing gear

Still thinking about protecting the skids from breaking. Thinking about something to soften the landing. Maybe styro foam or something.
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:21 AM
  #55  
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Default training gear

Is this strong enough?
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:22 AM
  #56  
no8080
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Why do you need to fit the carbon bumpers if you are following Radds training method?

You shouldn't be leaving a 1 foot square area!

I know it is difficult to stick to Radds method, it requires a lot of disclipine to stay with his training. But if you stick to his method then you will learn to control the heli in a very small area. A 20 foot room will feel huge.

Once you are completed Radds training you should be able to maintane a hover in an area of only a few foot.
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Old 03-24-2006, 10:25 AM
  #57  
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"Why do you need to fit the carbon bumpers if you are following Radds training method? "

I must have misunderstood Battery #7 at http://www.vankets.com/eco/flying-index.html . Thought scoot forward was to hover forward. Just trying to hover forward, it gets around.
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Old 03-24-2006, 10:40 AM
  #58  
no8080
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Originally Posted by yumscrunt View Post
"Why do you need to fit the carbon bumpers if you are following Radds training method? "

I must have misunderstood Battery #7 at http://www.vankets.com/eco/flying-index.html . Thought scoot forward was to hover forward. Just trying to hover forward, it gets around.
You are not meant to be hovering yet, if you are at battery 7 then this is to skid the heli forward a couple of foot, whilst keeping it straight and the tail lined up. The point in this exercise is to get you use to how the heli handles when you are moving it.

Radds training method teachs you how to keep the heli in a very tight area. The skids on the heli should not leave the ground at any times, until battery 10, this is when the heli should leave the ground. I would recommend you have total control over the heli in it's 1 foot square box before you attempt battery 10. If you do you will not need the carbon bumpers, the training gear will be more than adequate.

Best of luck.

Neil
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Old 03-24-2006, 12:23 PM
  #59  
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Hi Yumscrunt - interesting handle, I'm trying to work out if it's an anagram of something!

Congratulations on purchasing the HoneyBee CP2, a wise decision, but then I am biased!

I think your problem is that you have too big a room to practice in! To get the required degree of control your first priority should be to learn to hover accurately. I know that it is very tempting to start flying around like a thing posessed but the smaller your hover footprint, the more control you have, the better you will be at forward flight. It is also important to also be able to hover side-in and nose-in so that you know how to control the heli in it's different orientations. You have to remember that when the heli is flying towards you all the stick movements are reversed. This is much harder to master on a heli than a plane so knowing which way to push the stick in all orientations is vitally important. The advantage of learning orientation by practicing your hovers is that if anything goes wrong it will be a vertical (ish) descent to the floor skids first rather than into a wall horizontally (ish) blades first. Believe me from experience, skids survive better than blades!

I practice my hovers in my living room in a space about 4' x 4' and I can keep the heli 18'' off the ground in full control for a full battery. I can also move the heli where I want within the 4' x 4' box rather than continually reacting to the heli's movements. I can hold a fairly accurate right side-in hover, my left side-in hover is not so good but getting better and so far, I have only attempted nose-ins on the sim! Although it is much harder to hover in a small room because of the turbulence the heli creates, it is very good practice so as a result, my hovers in a big space require far less stick twiddling!

I know it is very hard to resist 'having a go' but these are difficult beasts to master and you really do have to walk before you run. Having a go is a guaranteed way to go spares shopping (been there, done that, can't afford the tee shirt!) and I am afraid your ingenious carbon fibre 'cage' will still not stop it going side into a wall at 10 mph. Only you, the pilot, can prevent that happening. Anything strong enough to prevent any damage in that sort of crash will be too heavy for the heli to lift.

You have to appreciate that micro helis have to be very delicate and lightweight machines simply to be able to fly. Anyone who thinks you can learn to fly one without spending a substantial amount of money replacing broken parts is, frankly, deluding themselves. I reckon you should budget on spending at least the equivalent of the purchase price of the original on spares in the first 3 months, assuming you are having a go and not leaving it sat on the shelf. A Bare Bones kit is a cheap way of buying spares, but some parts are more prone to breaking than others and need replacing more often, blades for instance. But if you shop around you can get these for $8. If you went fishing, you'd spend at least that on bait for a day, just to throw it in a lake at fish who will probably ignore it anyway. Be honest, which is cooler, throwing worms in a lake or flying a helicopter?

Sorry if I sound like a party poop, but rushing things will only lead to you getting disheartened. It really is worth persevering for that smug, glowy feeling when you can hover the heli so well it looks like a photograph! Plus the fact that everyones says that if you can a micro properly you can fly any RC heli, no problem! Any one got a quarter scale R22 they'd like to lend me?
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Old 03-24-2006, 04:14 PM
  #60  
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Thanks for the tips guys. I guess I was getting a little anxious when Radds training mentioned throwing the training gear on. I will slow down and not bring my heli to work until im ready to hover.

"Hi Yumscrunt - interesting handle, I'm trying to work out if it's an anagram of something!"

Just thought it was a funny word. Not an anagram of anything. It actually came from the word runt and not the other word.
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Old 04-28-2007, 04:33 PM
  #61  
bee89
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Default plx help:honey bee problem RED LED

hi guys,
I am new to RC thing and I got a new HB, trying to get it started.
But the main rotor is not getting started.
The 4in1 LED remains red after turning on the TX.
Plz help me swing the wings.
I am not sure wt switch setting i need for NOR, REV.
And I could not find "Idle off" switch on my Tx.

Last edited by bee89; 04-28-2007 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:01 PM
  #62  
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I set the Transmitter's Servo Reverser switches so that the THRottle switch was set to REVerse, the other three [AIL, ELE & RUD] were set to NORmal. At this the LED went to solid green, and all of the controls functioned properly.

If you read all of the posts in this thread I believe that you will find a wealth of good information.

Happy rotating, Gary
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:59 PM
  #63  
xuzme720
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from reading this thread (I just finished the whole thing) I cut and pasted from earlier....

"here is the way my TX was set up when I received it and it functions just the way it should. The AIL switch is down (NOR), the ELE switch is up (REV), the THR switch is down (NOR) and the RUD switch is up (REV). Nothing like the way it says in your manual but this works perfectly on mine.
My servos are connected to the 4 in 1 unit as follows, viewed from rear above heli,
Back left servo - CH6.
Back right servo - CH1.
Front (right) servo - CH2."

it seems that these setting might change from time to time so some experimenting might be in order to find what works for your bird.

also I believe the idle up switch is on the upper left side of the Tx.

Gary also
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:31 PM
  #64  
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!!?? Yumscrunt !!??... LOL.. now thats different..kinda funny and kinda scarey... I think I go home and tell my wife I've changed my name to that and see how she reacts..??!!.. Or better yet... tell her I have a new nickname for her....

"Yumscrunt"...I bet your the life of the party huh?...heeehhhehee


Listen ya'll.... have patience now...or pay tomorrow... "Its a done deal".... there was a time when hobby shops could almost give helicopters away...because they made more money selling parts...

A little patience will last months...and keep the fun police from your mail box..
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