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Servo Connector

Old 12-09-2010, 07:00 AM
  #1  
jim81
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Default Servo Connector

Anyplace I can read how to disconnect the red wire in the servo without cutting it? Putting in a UBEC so I have to disable the red wire coming from the ESC that would normally provide power to the receiver.

Is it possible to get those connectors and modify the standard set up. Thanks.
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:53 AM
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Rollin1
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Default there ya go

take care with the exacto
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:50 AM
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slipstick
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You shouldn't really need to mangle the plastic like that. Just push the little metal tag DOWN and the metal connector pin will pull out of the plastic socket. Then you can just tape it back against the lead so you can use it again sometime later if you need it.

Steve
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:52 AM
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Thanks Steve,I took a bad pick (should have looked closer)its not mangled it cliped back in nice and this style does not have the metal tab
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:03 PM
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I do the same job on a 3 inch servo extension.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:52 PM
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I'm with Al.. Get a 3" servo extension and sever the red wire on THAT. Then you can use your unaltered ESC in future projects without having to repair/re-fit.
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Old 12-09-2010, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jim81 View Post
Anyplace I can read how to disconnect the red wire in the servo without cutting it? Putting in a UBEC so I have to disable the red wire coming from the ESC that would normally provide power to the receiver.

Is it possible to get those connectors and modify the standard set up. Thanks.
I also just pull the red wire out with the exacto knife blade. But, also cover the bare terminal on the red wire with a piece of tape, or shrink tubing, just in case.

It helps to hold the plastic shell of the servo connector gently in a mini vise for the "third hand". Don't bend that plastic tang back very far, or it might break off.
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:40 PM
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jim81
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I kind of thought that pushing down on the metal part might release it but hand't thought of the minivise as the 3rd hand. The 3" servo extension sounds good too.

After all the reading here, I doubt that I'll ever use a standard BEC alone on anything. Maybe on a combat plane but not on anything I expect to fly for awhile. So cutting it may not be as bad an option as originally thought. Pulling the connector and heat shrinking it sounds the most sanitary. Thanks all...jim
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:36 PM
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kyleservicetech
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Originally Posted by jim81 View Post
After all the reading here, I doubt that I'll ever use a standard BEC alone on anything.
Many of those ESC's use a simple linear voltage regulator for powering the receiver. Works well, unless you overload that voltage regulator with either to high of a battery voltage, or to heavy of a servo load, (or both?).

When this happens, those linear regulators heat up, and by design these regulators shut off their output when they overheat, to protect themselves.

Unfortunately, that also means no battery power to your receiver and servos, and you crash. And by the time you get to your model, that regulator has cooled off, and is working again.

IMHO, for any model motor running on over 10 Volts DC or so check out those uBEC's (Switching power supply Battery Elimination Circuits). Castle Creations makes one that will work on up to 6S Lipos, and can put out some 10 amperes. Some of the Castle Creations ICE ESC's also use a switching power supply for the receivers.

I've been using these uBEC's now for three years, both Castle Creations, and Common Sense in my Kilowatt sized model airplanes. All six have been flawless in their operation.
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:53 AM
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I have 2 of the Castle Creations you talk about. Got one for my Trojan as I am in the process of adding flaps. Also have and will soon put together a Multiplex Mentor which will end up using 6 servos. Adding flaps and a release servo. Putting a BIG motor in there and hope to use it as a tug to pull sailplanes for the local club. I won't be flying as it's an AMA field and as little as I'll be there the membership fee to AMA is pretty steep. So, I'll enjoy some of the experts flying it and pulling their friends up to altitude.
Am wondering with the big motor if torque will be much of an issue on take off? jim
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Old 12-14-2010, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jim81 View Post
Am wondering with the big motor if torque will be much of an issue on take off? jim
It is something to be aware of. As long as you have flying speed, IMHO, torque is something that can be handled with few problems.

But, I've got a showtime 50 model with a Hacker A50-16S, 6S2P A123 battery, 16X12 APC-E prop. Several years ago, when the model was slowed down just over stalling for a landing, decided to hit full power for a go-around. Wound up with the model at about 5 feet in the air, with the motor torque rotating the whole entire model at about a 45 degree rotation to the left within a second or three.

The tremendous power of that Hacker pulled it out, but made a note to myself to NEVER instantly apply full power to that motor again on a go-around. Just wind up the motor in 5 seconds or so, and that pretty much takes care of the issue.
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