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Chrysalis build round two.

Old 11-20-2013, 07:04 PM
  #26  
mred
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Originally Posted by Tennislee View Post
I have also seen a (cularis power set ) advertised. Would that be a good set up for a chrysalis?
That would be a bit of over kill for something like this. That is a 400W motor and I am using a 200W and that is plenty of power to make a great climb. If you are looking for a rocket, it would be a great motor, but you may have problems keeping the motor off the wires. I use a KD A22 20L in mine and that is plenty of motor and is lighter. Mine is 3.2oz verses 5.7oz. That is more like the weight of the Speed 600 motor. It is also way more expensive then the motor I have. I think my whole setup cost around $50.00 for the power system. That is about a third of the price of that one too.
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:45 PM
  #27  
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Default Shear Webs being glued in.

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Old 11-20-2013, 09:48 PM
  #28  
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Default Wing Dowel

This is a tricky procedure. I pre bend the dowel before hand and then tack in one end with slow CA. When this is dried , I finish glueing in the remainding leading edge dowel.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:53 AM
  #29  
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I soaked my dowel in hot water for a few minuets and that made putting it on ever so much easier. I have heard of people putting it on dry, but that just seems the hard way to me. Once it is soaked good, dry it off with a towel and then glue it on with TightBond and let it set up to dry. I have different ways of holding it in place while drying, and I just let it sit overnight and the next morning it is all dry and glued on good. Anyway, it worked for me.....

Also, I put the diagonals all the way out to the tip of my wing. It's not that they are needed, it's just that I thought it looked unfinished without them, so I put them in. Don says it is no big deal and they really are not needed for strength, but I just liked the looks.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:44 PM
  #30  
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Default Dowel

I have tried both methods and I agree that pre be dining is a much better way than the dry method. FishHawk
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Old 11-22-2013, 06:18 AM
  #31  
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I would recommend you try for a lighter power system. This model is very light and it seems a shame to make it over weight when you dont really need to.

Im flying a 112" span Mirage that weighs about 27 ounces all up with a 42 gram ( about 1.5 oz) motor and it gets to ALES altitude - 650 ft or so - in about 22 seconds.

Im also flying a Bubble Dancer that is 127" span and weighs 43 ounces all up with a 54 gram (- 2 ounce) motor and it also gets to over 650 ft in under 30 seconds.

You absolutely do not need huge amounts of power to fly sailplanes - especially one like the Chrysalis. In fact, the extra weight of a higher power setup will hurt how it flys.

If you need to make the nose longer to balance, then do that. The model will fly much better if its lighter
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:58 AM
  #32  
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Default You are correct

Larry, you are correct, however, I tried the chrysails with the 480 and light winds and there just not enough power with my set up.
I do not have the best set up for this model. But , that will give me an excuse to get the correct set up! . FishHawk
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:35 AM
  #33  
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I dont understand how the 480 would not be enough power. That motor can do 300 watts plus peak. My 42 ounce Bubble dancer is only using about 220 watts peak and the Mirage is about 160 watts peak and they both still climb like home sick angles Both of them, having a larger span, have more drag than the Chrysalis.

How large a battery pack are you flying with? Im using small 850 mahr high C packs to save weight.

Even with large packs, with a 480 motor your Chrysalis shouldnt have weighed much more than my Mirage and certainly less than the Bubble Dancer.

Why do you think it was having problems with that much power? Is there something else going on maybe?
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:45 AM
  #34  
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By the way, if I was building this model I would use a motor in the 40-50 gram/150-200 watt range. With 200 watts it should still out climb my Bubble Dancer.

At 220 watts, my Bubble Dancer is flying on about 84 watts/pound. The Mirage at 27 ounces is flying at about 94 watts/pound.

You should be able to build the Chrysalis at close to stock weight with that light a power system, so 200 watts should give you close to 100+ watts/pound.

More than enough to fly it in ALES contests and way over what is needed for sport soaring.

On the other hand, if you're after more of a warmliner type of flying, then more power is better.

Last edited by Larry3215; 11-23-2013 at 06:50 AM. Reason: stupid math errors :)
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:51 PM
  #35  
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Mine gets up very fast with 200 watts. I use a 13-8 Aeronaut prop, three A123M1 cells and a MPJET 28/20-7 motor. It comes in at a porky 48.6 ounces for 66 watts/pound and 9.68 ounces /sq foot wing loading.
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:28 PM
  #36  
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Default Battery weight

My NIMH battery weights 14oz. The model flew ok but was under powered because of the weight.
Yes, I can go with the lighter Lipo but for now this is what I'm using.
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:25 PM
  #37  
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Weight is most important in glide on in calm conditions. Those conditions seldom exist in these parts and some weight is desirable. I don't obsess about it.
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:47 PM
  #38  
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How many rolls of covering are needed? I 'm guessing three? I like the leading edge solid with the transparent on the back 2/3 to show the internal structure scheme.

Also, although the outside wing panel trailing edge precut slots for the ribs are perfect as per the plans, the inboard trailing edge slots appear to be about 1/8 inch off. I guess I can fudge that much or am I doing something wrong? In my experience with laser kit kits they are usually spot on in every respect.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:30 PM
  #39  
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Default 3 should do it.

I did My first one with two but three would have been better . FishHawk
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:13 AM
  #40  
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Since I didn't extend the nose on my first one, I needed the weight in the nose to make the CG right. I have a 200W motor and a 2200Mah battery and it came out to 38.5oz ready to fly. I also use a 10X6 prop and pull right at 20A static on ground testing. I have transparent covering on my entire wing since I want to see that while flying. It is one pretty wing and looks great covered in transparent film.

I am going to build a new fuselage and extend the nose so I can go with a smaller battery and motor and see if I can make this one lighter. I think I can make it down to around 30oz if I watch it better and maybe a little more, but not a lot under that. I think my 150W motor will be just about perfect for it.
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:20 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Tennislee View Post
How many rolls of covering are needed? I 'm guessing three? I like the leading edge solid with the transparent on the back 2/3 to show the internal structure scheme.

Also, although the outside wing panel trailing edge precut slots for the ribs are perfect as per the plans, the inboard trailing edge slots appear to be about 1/8 inch off. I guess I can fudge that much or am I doing something wrong? In my experience with laser kit kits they are usually spot on in every respect.
If you are talking about being off from the plans, then forget it. The plans being paper change size with temp and humidity changes. Go by the notches in the trailing edge and forget about being right on with the plans. Don mentioned this is the big build we had.
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:23 PM
  #42  
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Default New plans

The second set of plans that I just got are accurate. I am not that concerned to much about the weight of my model. That being said ; lighter is always better.
I will post some more photos after Thanks giving.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:26 PM
  #43  
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Try and get it under 40oz and it will fly fantastic. You cannot believe how nice this thing flies under 40oz. I saw a very large change when I took out some of the weight. I have my CG a ways back of the one on the plan and it is very light on it's feet now. It will signal a thermal really nice and is a joy to fly. I think if I can get a few more ounces out of it then it will be perfect.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:12 AM
  #44  
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I have read that several people extended the nose of their chrysalis, any thoughts??
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Old 11-27-2013, 04:21 AM
  #45  
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I am either going to get a new glider and mod the heck out of it just for kicks, or just get a fuselage kit and make the nose longer. I think 1.5 to 1.75 inches should do it if you have a lite motor and you can save some weight with a smaller battery. I have to put a 3S 2200MAh in there now to get the CG right. This thing was designed for a speed 600 motor and NiCads and in those days, they didn't have these nice burshless motors like they do now and the LiPo has changed the world too. If you change over to the brushless system, then you come out tail heavy since you just don't get the weight in the nose like the old motor had, so you get to add weight. I did that with that 3S battery in the nose.

I normally start a new plane out on the nose heavy side so I don't have one that runs away with me. After I get it adjusted so it flies good, then I start moving the CG back. By the time I was done moving it, I was in back of the CG shown on the plans. Most designers do this so you don't get in trouble on a first flight and wind up re-kitting the thing. Some people do not like where mine is at and want it farther forward or back of mine a little.

The CG is a personal thing and changes from person to person especially with gliders. All I can say is, start where it shows you on the plans and get it trimmed out and used to flying it and then you can start moving to farther back as you gain experience and do it slowly. Get used to flying it there and then move it a little farther back and fly it there for awhile. You will come to a point that you don't like the way it is flying and that is your CG setting when you go back to the last one you had.
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:16 PM
  #46  
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SOMEONE, I forget who or where (here or RCForums) posted a great set of articles on .pdf about the proper setting of the CG for a responsive yet controllable sailplane. I though I had down loaded it but it isn't on this computer. If anyone knows what I'm talking about please post this. I'll look for it on my other PC when I am next on it.
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:55 PM
  #47  
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Those posts on how to balance a Glider have helped me as well. Larry3215 has been posting some of Gordy's articles from RC Soaring Digest. Great stuff.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...9&postcount=14

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Old 11-27-2013, 06:02 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Tennislee View Post
I have read that several people extended the nose of their chrysalis, any thoughts??
Lots of thoughts on this over on RCGroups. Mine ( which unfortunately needs lots of fixing...) had an extension of 1.5 in and allowed the battery to be under the wing. See post # 26 in my thread on my build. Don Stackhouse gave his thoughts on a nose extension.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=68088&page=2

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Old 12-02-2013, 04:25 AM
  #49  
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Hi Fish sorry about your loss, I lost my Vista in Sept. in Deep woods. I tried finding it from the air with no luck ( cam mounted on Bixler). Have trouble walking so ground search was limited. I wouldn't have minded but it was an excellent flying plane. All my planes are bl powered. I had a 10 sized 1000kv Rocket exceed in it. With a 11x8 it was a rocket and had to throttle back some but it flew well. Have a Crysallis but I bought it built. Guy in our club loves to build these and sells them to club members who don't like to build. I put a Firepower 10 in it with an 11x6 folder and it flys nice. 1800 3s lipo powers it. Even had a guy in an ultra light look for the Vista with no luck.
Hope I never lose another, at least with a crash you get some parts and maybe learn what went wrong. Good luck with your build.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:41 PM
  #50  
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Default I guess I'm not the only one who lost a plane.

I know how it feels. I think that someone might have taken it from the Marsh.
I checked with the local hobbie shop when it happened and no one brought in a model looking for additional equipment to fly the model.
Oh well what can you do but move on and build a new one. FishHawk
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