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-   -   bent case park 300 motor (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66211)

Mastyrlock 03-23-2012 11:57 PM

bent case park 300 motor
 
Hello everyone I have visited this forum many times and have gained impeccable knowledge from you guys and finally decided to join with a few questions of my own.
My problem is while trying to reverse the motor shaft on a brand new e flite park 300 brushless I somehow bent the front motor case trying to remove the shaft. Here is a pic of the damage.. note the shaft is still true. I have removed plenty of shafts on my apprentice's 15 motor and was trying to tap the shaft out of this 300 when I noticed I bent the case. (I thought I was tapping lightly..apparently not.)

Mastyrlock 03-23-2012 11:58 PM

sorry need two more posts.

Mastyrlock 03-23-2012 11:58 PM

one more...

Mastyrlock 03-23-2012 11:59 PM

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...lock/photo.jpg

kyleservicetech 03-24-2012 12:19 AM


Originally Posted by Mastyrlock (Post 862617)
Hello everyone I have visited this forum many times and have gained impeccable knowledge from you guys and finally decided to join with a few questions of my own.
My problem is while trying to reverse the motor shaft on a brand new e flite park 300 brushless I somehow bent the front motor case trying to remove the shaft. Here is a pic of the damage.. note the shaft is still true. I have removed plenty of shafts on my apprentice's 15 motor and was trying to tap the shaft out of this 300 when I noticed I bent the case. (I thought I was tapping lightly..apparently not.)

If you were trying to drive the shaft downwards as viewed in your photo, looks like the inside of the bell needs to be supported while driving that shaft. You might take a run to the local hardware store and pick up a few of those aluminum or steel spacers. Slide the spacers over the shaft inside the bell, and place those spacers in a stout vice or similar support. Make certain no force is being placed on any part of the magnet bell.

Then drive the shaft through from the other side.

As far as your existing motor, trying to get it back straight is not an easy job. First, a dial indicator is absolutely required. Even if you get the magnet bell straight per the dial indicator, it's likely to wobble somewhere else and still have magnet clearance problems. (Yeah, I ran into this while building up a bunch of those www.gobrushless.com motors. Driving in their shafts often wound up knocking the magnet bell out of alignment.)

Mastyrlock 03-24-2012 12:57 AM

bent case park 300 motor
 
Sounds like your right about supporting the inside of the bell next time. Sometimes you learn the hard way. I guess I'm just going to have to get a block of wood and a mallet and go to work on it. Luckily the bell housing the magnets doesn't seem to be bent just the conical front portion if the motor. Has anyone had this happen to them on a small park motor before and happen to have any advice from experience?

kyleservicetech 03-24-2012 02:25 AM


Originally Posted by Mastyrlock (Post 862628)
Sounds like your right about supporting the inside of the bell next time. Sometimes you learn the hard way. I guess I'm just going to have to get a block of wood and a mallet and go to work on it. Luckily the bell housing the magnets doesn't seem to be bent just the conical front portion if the motor. Has anyone had this happen to them on a small park motor before and happen to have any advice from experience?

Yeah on those small gobrushless motors. If the shaft is bent, from my experience you'll never get everything straight. :(

swimmer 03-24-2012 02:38 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Done this with many motors- Here is how...it's very simple.

Drill a hole through a short piece of 2x4 a little larger than your shaft. Then, use another drill bit to drill a larger hole following the shaft hole so the collet can slide into it. Slide the shaft into the hole, push the collet into it's hole so it is flush with the wood. Use a vise to push the shaft through the end bell. You will have to have a pin to put behind the shaft to push it all the way out. Re-install it the same way using the wood and vise. You can use a piece of wood to push on to keep from damaging your shaft.

Tell you what...if you live in the lower 48 states I've got a shaft and end bell off a burnt up Eflite 300 I'd mail to you. Let me know how you want the shaft arranged and I'll do it before mailing to you or you could attempt with the method above. End bell is in great shape so you can reuse it also. Or, you could buy another motor..up to you. If interested pm me and we can work out the details.

Allan

Mastyrlock 03-24-2012 03:21 AM

bent case park 300 motor
 
That's exactly the info I needed I'll pm you as soon as I get home. Thanks.

pabel 04-04-2012 08:14 AM

shaft removal
 
have removed many shafts from 280s you hammered from the wrong side. drill hole in 1 inch piece of hardwood larger then shaft hammer with bell up. heat motor in oven 175 degrees take ice cube and stick shaft in ice cube for 30 seconds then hammer out with plastic mallet. putting shaft back in ,heat motor freeze shaft

kyleservicetech 04-04-2012 05:44 PM


Originally Posted by pabel (Post 864188)
have removed many shafts from 280s you hammered from the wrong side. drill hole in 1 inch piece of hardwood larger then shaft hammer with bell up. heat motor in oven 175 degrees take ice cube and stick shaft in ice cube for 30 seconds then hammer out with plastic mallet. putting shaft back in ,heat motor freeze shaft

Just asking, what is the maximum safe temperature for the magnets, and the adhesive holding them in place?

pabel 04-06-2012 09:53 AM

have heated e flight motors to 200 degrees many times no ill effects observed, using 175 degrees because its easier on the fingers.

flydiver 04-06-2012 04:37 PM

Over heating can destroy them. Depends on the classification. This is one of those areas where better (more expensive?) motors may be better off than cheapies.

Neodymium Magnet Information

Demagnetization

Rare Earth magnets have a high resistance to demagnetization, unlike most other types of magnets. They will not lose their magnetization around other magnets or if dropped. They will however, begin to lose strength if they are heated above their maximum operating temperature, which is 176F (80C) for standard N grades. They will completely lose their magnetization if heated above their Curie temperature, which is 590F (310C) for standard N grades. Some of our magnets are of high temperature material, which can withstand higher temperatures without losing strength.


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